I’m not going to be too wordy in this post because I don’t want words to distract you from the main event.
Which is the picture above.
(or 2:03) in this clip
Would you look at that thing! Let me tell you, a wave like that will put a smile on your dial for quite a while. When a photographer captures it? Well, then you can carry that stoke around in your pocket, so don’t be surprised if the next time we meet I pull out my cellphone to show you this same pic.
Anyway, this was supposed to be a short post so I’ll cut to the chase – I almost didn’t catch this wave.
If you look at the pic, the corner of Llandudno, there by the rocks, is called The Gat, which is where I was sitting when this set pulled wide. I needed to get about ten or more metres closer to the middle of the bay in just a few seconds, with a pack of other frothing surfers paddling hard with me, so I put my forehead on my board and dug in deep with my arms. There were about five guys on the shoulder ready to go, but with my final stroke I quickly checked my inside, called off the guys on the shoulder, and then scooped into the wave.
That’s when everything slowed down and a beautiful music started to play. When I exited I looked up at the lip of the wave throwing over me in order to appreciate her beauty from as many angles as possible, committing as much to memory as possible for insurance against the inevitable dry-times ahead. Then I released my rail, came screaming out, used every muscle in my body to resist the reflex to claim and just stared back at the guys on the patch who were doing it for me.
Okay, so like I said, usually I wouldn’t have caught this wave. Either I would’ve missed it completely or got pitched paddling in too late. But last night it worked out for me and it’s all thanks to my new pull-up regime.
Stay with me now…
I did an interview with Casey Neistat on the last day of work last year, and it literally changed my life. One of the things that Casey told me was how he’s got a timer on his desk that goes off every hour so that he’s reminded to do pull ups. Sitting in a chair all day will kill you, and Casey knows this, which is why whenever he’s stuck editing his films he takes regular breaks to do some pull ups.
So when I got back to work in January I made a new rule where I had to do five pull-ups every time I got up from my chair. The first week I sent emails to my boss who works in the cubicle next to me, drank no coffee and tried to save my ablutions for home. The next week I did a few. The week after I did more. Nowadays I’m not even counting, just doing pull ups until I can’t do them anymore.
After I lost my boxing body I regressed to your typical 30-year old desk-jockey. Except this time I was bald as well. Which makes it VERY difficult to get the waves that you want.
But now I’m not only gorgeous again, I’m fit enough to brag about that great wave I caught last night instead of lamenting the one that got away.
Go do some pull-ups, boys.
*Thanks to Simon Heale for putting in the time behind the lens. If you’d like to send him money and other fine things you can contact him, here.